From La Seu to Sant Felip Neri: a walk through the heart of Palma de Mallorca

Some walks are measured in kilometres and others in centuries. This route through the centre of Palma de Mallorca belongs to the latter: barely 0.74 kilometres separate its two stops, yet between them lies a good part of the island's history. It begins at Mallorca's grandest place of worship, the Cathedral, overlooking the bay, and ends at a Baroque corner that appears almost by surprise among the streets of the old town: the church of Sant Felip Neri.

It's a short walk, perfect for a relaxed morning or for fitting in between other plans, and its charm lies in the contrast: from monumental scale to human scale, from Gothic that reaches for the heavens to the intimate Baroque of a neighbourhood church.

The route at a glance

• Stop 1: Palma de Mallorca Cathedral. La Seu, the island's great church, beside the sea.
• Stop 2: Church of Sant Felip Neri. 0.74 kilometres away on foot, right in the maze of streets in the centre.

Total distance: 0.74 kilometres. It can be done at a leisurely pace with no special preparation, although it's the time you spend at each stop that will really determine how long the walk takes.

First stop: the Cathedral, a promise made in the midst of a storm

Few cathedrals greet the traveller quite like Palma's. Built on the shore of the bay, it looks out over the sea from above the old Roman and Renaissance walls that once defended the city. It's a view no other Gothic cathedral can offer, and it's worth pausing for a moment to admire it from outside before going in.

Mallorcans don't usually say "the cathedral": they simply call it La Seu, the name given to cathedrals in the Crown of Aragon. It is the island's great church, seat of the Diocese of Mallorca, and is dedicated to the Assumption of Mary.

A seafaring legend at its origin

The story of La Seu begins at sea, and not a calm one. During the crossing to conquer Mallorca, a violent storm caught the fleet of James I. In the midst of the tempest, the king vowed to build a church to Saint Mary if their lives were spared. The promise was kept: after the conquest in 1229, he ordered the great mosque of Madina Mayurqa to be demolished, and work began on that very site.

It was a long construction, the kind passed down from generation to generation. James III attended its consecration in 1346, when it was declared complete, although work continued long afterwards. Knowing this helps you see the building with fresh eyes: what stands before you is the result of the efforts of many hands over the centuries.

What not to miss inside

As you step through the door, the first thing that strikes you is the scale. The vaults reach 45 metres high, higher than those of Cologne, on a par with Milan and only just below Beauvais, the tallest Gothic cathedral in the world. With a floor area of more than 6,600 square metres and an enormous interior volume, this Levantine Gothic space is an experience of light and emptiness that's hard to forget.

Take your time exploring it and, above all, look up at its great rose window, 13 metres in diameter. It is the largest original rose window of any European Gothic cathedral: the few that surpass it are Neo-Gothic. If the sun is shining, the light filtering through it is one of the highlights of the visit.

The walk: from the sea to the maze of the old town

From the Cathedral, the route heads into Palma's historic centre. It's only 0.74 kilometres, but the change of atmosphere is striking: you leave behind the open bay and the walls to enter the web of streets where the city's everyday life unfolds.

It's a good stretch to walk without looking at your phone too much, taking in the façades and the rhythm of the neighbourhood. The idea of this route is precisely to alternate the big sights with more understated corners, and the walk itself is part of that transition.

Second stop: Sant Felip Neri, the Baroque gem around the corner

Tucked between Carrer Vilanova and the street that bears its own name, the church of Sant Felip Neri is one of those places worth seeking out unhurriedly. It doesn't dominate the skyline like other monuments in the city; it suddenly appears as you turn a corner, and therein lies much of its charm. It's a Baroque corner fully woven into the life of the neighbourhood.

Three centuries of Trinitarians

Its history begins in the late 16th century, when it was built for the Order of the Most Holy Trinity. The Trinitarians looked after it for some three centuries, so the building we see today is linked above all to that long conventual period, when the island was experiencing the rise of early modern religious devotion.

The arrival of the Oratorians

The great change came in the 19th century, when the church passed to the Congregation of the Oratory of Saint Philip Neri, known as the Oratorians. It was they who gave it the name by which we know it today, and they are still in charge of it now. This is unusual and lends it a remarkable continuity: more than a century in the same hands without ever ceasing to be a place of worship.

What to look out for

Notice the Baroque style of the whole and let yourself be carried away by the intimate atmosphere of the interior. After the vastness of La Seu, this space makes a perfect counterpoint, as well as a respite from the bustle of the nearby streets. Remember that it is a working church: enter quietly, respect those who are praying and avoid disturbing any service that may be taking place.

Tips for planning your visit

• When to go. The best time to do this route is from May to October. Summer is high season and the hottest time of year, so in July and August it's best to set off early or save the walk for late afternoon, avoiding the middle of the day.
• Get to the Cathedral early. It is the most visited monument in the city; in high season and on public holidays, beating the crowds makes all the difference.
• Comfortable footwear. Although the route is short, the old town invites you to wander a little further, and the historic streets are best enjoyed in good shoes.
• Water and sun protection. Essential in the hottest months, especially in the open area by the bay.
• Respectful dress. Both stops are places of worship; in summer, bring something to cover up with if you're wearing very light clothing.
• No rush. The distance is minimal, so your time is your own: spend it gazing upwards in La Seu and enjoying the silence of Sant Felip Neri.

A short walk with plenty of history

In under a kilometre, this route sums up two sides of Palma: the monumental city born of a promise made in the midst of a storm, and the everyday city of narrow streets and neighbourhood churches that have kept their life going for centuries. It's a simple and very rewarding way to start getting to know the old town, and perhaps the perfect excuse to keep on walking afterwards.