San Vicente de la Sonsierra Castle

The first thing to do on arriving in San Vicente de la Sonsierra is to head uphill. At the very top of the village, on a hill overlooking the Ebro valley, stands its castle, and from its walls it is immediately clear why someone chose to fortify this particular spot: the river, the lands of La Rioja Alta and the far bank all lie in view, spread out at the visitor's feet like an unfolded map.

The fortress was built by the Kingdom of Navarre in the 12th century to protect its southern border against Castile. This was no ordinary stronghold: it formed part of the defensive line running from Laguardia to Labastida and went on to become the largest Navarrese fortress on the Ebro. You need only look across the river to spot its old rival, Davalillo Castle, which belonged to Castile. The two still face each other today, witnesses to a time when this valley was frontier land.

The castle is built of sandstone ashlar, sturdy and solid in its workmanship. That robustness, combined with its commanding position above the valley, must have made it a virtually impregnable stronghold, and even today it conveys a sense of quiet strength.

The visit is not limited to the fortress itself. The castle forms part of a walled precinct that brings together other buildings well worth a look: the so-called clock tower, the hermitage of San Juan de Arriba and the parish church of Santa María la Mayor. Exploring this ensemble gives a good idea of the historic heart of the village, where the military and the religious sit side by side at the top of the hill.

The castle is protected as part of Spain's Historical Heritage, a well-deserved recognition for a place that sums up much of the history of the Riojan Sonsierra.