Church of Santa María (Paredes de Nava)

Few churches sum up the history of a Castilian town within their walls quite as well as Santa María in Paredes de Nava. Before it became a Christian parish church, this site was home to a Jewish synagogue, and it was on top of that building that the church was founded in 1412. Anyone who comes here is therefore treading on ground where two religious traditions coexisted and succeeded one another, which gives a visit an interest that goes beyond the purely artistic.

The church is dedicated to Our Lady of Cantomenudo, a dedication as unusual as it is resonant, and ranks second in importance among the parish churches of this town in the province of Palencia. That secondary role does nothing to diminish its appeal: on the contrary, it lets you take it in at your leisure and understand how religious life was organised in a town that once supported several significant churches.

The building we see today went up over the course of the 15th century, shortly after that foundation, and still bears the stamp of that period of change. However, it has not come down to us intact as it was originally conceived: in the first half of the 17th century it underwent a renovation that rebuilt much of its fabric and gave it a new appearance.

Behind that reconstruction was the Balbuena family, who acted as patrons of the works. It is a fine example of how local families left their mark on the churches of their towns, funding renovations that served both devotion and family prestige. As you walk around Santa María, it is worth bearing this dual reading in mind: a medieval sacred space on the one hand, and a building refurbished through the efforts of some illustrious residents on the other.

A worthwhile stop for anyone visiting Paredes de Nava who wants to explore the layers of history that overlap in its streets.