Church of Santa Eulalia de Mérida

In Gámiz, one of the *concejos* (small rural districts) that make up the municipality of Vitoria, stands the Church of Santa Eulalia de Mérida. It is a church of modest fame, the kind that rarely features on the major routes, and that is precisely what makes it worthwhile for travellers who enjoy discovering the lesser-known heritage of Álava.

The first thing that catches the eye is its dedication. Saint Eulalia of Mérida is a martyr linked to the ancient city of Emerita Augusta, in Extremadura, a long way from the Álava landscape. Finding her name on a church in a small Basque village is a reminder of just how far cults and devotions travelled across the peninsula.

The visit also offers a glimpse of another side of Vitoria. Beyond its historic centre, the municipality takes in a number of *concejos* with a life of their own, and Gámiz is one of them. Heading out to its church is an easy way to leave the capital and get a taste of the more rural surroundings that encircle it.

It is best to approach the outing at a relaxed pace and without expecting grand monuments: the appeal lies in the whole, in the peacefulness of the place and in a fondness for quiet, out-of-the-way corners. For anyone exploring Álava with a curious eye, the Church of Santa Eulalia de Mérida is a stop well worth adding to the itinerary, perhaps combined with a stroll around Gámiz.