Hermitage of Jesús Nazareno

On Calle Doctor Miras Navarro in Fuente Obejuna stands a small church that has caused far more of a stir than its size might suggest. The Hermitage of Jesús Nazareno is a religious building in the Mudéjar style, and it is precisely this architectural language – heir to the Andalusi tradition but born in Christian times – that makes it a highly recommended stop for anyone exploring the north of the province of Córdoba.

Its history has something of a solved mystery about it. For a time, some authors went so far as to believe it dated from the Muslim period, an understandable mistake given how Mudéjar architecture borrows forms and techniques from Islamic art. That interpretation turned out to be wrong, but it helps explain the building's appeal: take a moment to look at it properly and you'll see why it managed to fool more than one scholar.

It is no coincidence that the authors of the Catálogo artístico y monumental de la provincia de Córdoba singled it out as a building that has always aroused great interest among historians. That interest, fuelled largely by the debate over its origins, has made this hermitage one of the highlights of the town's heritage.

It's also worth knowing that the church hasn't always gone by this name. Before being dedicated to Jesús Nazareno, it was known as the church of San Miguel, a change of dedication that adds another layer to its long life. A visit is a good excuse to stroll through the old quarter of Fuente Obejuna and pause at one of those corners where art history is, quite literally, written on the walls.