Basílica de la Macarena

Some churches are visited for their architecture and others for what they mean, and the Basílica de la Macarena belongs firmly in the second category. This is home to the Esperanza Macarena, one of the images that best sums up Sevillian devotion, and coming to see her is a glimpse into the very heart of the city's Holy Week.

The church, officially the Basílica de María Santísima de la Esperanza Macarena, stands on the Plaza de la Esperanza Macarena, right in the neighbourhood that bears its name and beside the Ronda Histórica, just inside Seville's old town. Its location makes it a natural stop for anyone exploring the northern part of the historic centre, in a setting where neighbourhood life and brotherhood tradition go hand in hand.

The basilica is the seat of the Hermandad de la Esperanza Macarena, which goes a long way towards explaining its character. It is not just a place of worship but the starting and finishing point of one of the city's most deeply rooted brotherhoods. Every year its penitential procession sets out from here during the Madrugada of Good Friday, the most eagerly awaited night of Seville's Holy Week.

The Virgin does not process alone: she is accompanied by Nuestro Padre Jesús de la Sentencia, the brotherhood's other great titular image. Seeing both in their church, calmly and away from the bustle of the streets, lets you appreciate them up close and understand the emotion they stir as they pass through the neighbourhood in the small hours.

It is well worth setting aside some time to go in and take it slowly, whether you are travelling during Holy Week itself or at any other time of year. It is one of those visits that help you understand Seville beyond its most photographed monuments.